Florentine Gown

A style of dress worn by women in Florence Italy from 1500-1525. The square neckline bodice naturally curves the female body. The neckline is decorated with wide trim as is the hemline.

May 10, 2006
I first attempted this dress with help from Festive Attyre. I began creating a hemp corded corset. I used the instructions found here and am attempting the 16th century Florentine dress.

May 15, 2006
Why not a type of cordless, self-supporting bodice? Lady Sarah gave me the link to a venetian dress made by Heather Harris. I think I will use the free online custom Corset Pattern Maker.

June 12, 2006
Took the experimental corded bodice, cut off the straps and made a corset. I put on cheap eyelets which catch on the nylon cord. Need to purchase real good ones off Ebay or something. The corset turned out to be too big in the front - about a one inch gap. Cut off an inch in the front of the bodice and when I put it all back together the sides moved from the outer back to the front of my body. Now I have to make another corset for this dress. I don't know if I'll have time to finish it by Pennsic.

January 15, 2007
I do own a corded florentine dress but it was not made by me. I hired someone back in 2005 to make it because I wanted to have some type of italian gown. It is made of linen and has a corded hemp corset.

After two years of wear it needed a tune-up. First I redyed it because the pink turned almost neon after two washes. I had to resew the eyelets, replace the top and bottom velvet trim which had frayed.

Lamentably, I had to rip out the corded bodice inside the dress because after four washings the cords shrunk about an inch, had gotten stiff and they don't curve around my body the way they used to. Turns out the linen and cotton alone seem to do the cinching job for me while still staying relatively smooth. I may attempt another corded bodice with thinner hemp cord than what I used for the first bodice if the wrinkles get on my nerves.



January 17, 2008
After I finished the pattern for the venetian bodice, I realized it seemed very familiar. Went to Thompson's website and found her pattern for a florentine bodice. The two patterns are almost identical except for minor shoulder strap issues. Then I looked at my fabric shelf and saw my orange and yellow linen. They are screaming at me to make them into florentine gowns. Who am I to argue?

November 10, 2008
East Kingdom twelfth night is coming up and gives me the kick in the arse I need to start and finish this gown. My main problem is, of course, the bodice. I need to make it smooth, curve around the bust and not use a corded corset. I probably end up adding one anyway but I'll try to do without it.

I've successfully made a gamurra bodice that curves smooth. I can't use that design because it will create a front seam on this dress. Though this portrait shows something that looks like a front seam. I was told by one costumer that it could be a hidden seam to allow for breastfeeding. Compared to other paintings, the general consensus is that the bodice front is all one piece.

In browsing a forum I realized I own Period Patterns #41 Italian Renaissance. Gotta check that pattern and see what they recommend.

November 12, 2008
I don't need no stinkin' corset if I can breastbind. My mother taught me how to do it, she learned it from her mother who learned it... (ad nauseum). It seems like a simple solution. It gives the curve of the bust, adds support and accounts for the fact that there is no real evidence of corsets being used by Florentine women at the time. Marie Chantal also tried breastbinding with great success. I'll have to try it several times before I remember and get it right. I'll post directions or a video when I've figured it out.

November 17, 2008
Breastbinding used to work when I was a teenager but now my 40+ year old bust doesn't want to cooperate. I finally achieved the rounded look after two hours of trial and error. Here are directions for those patient and interested enough to use this method.

I used a 4" wide by 2 yard length of white linen. For reference I'm 4' 11" tall and a 36B. Depending on your size you may need a 6" or even an 8" wide length of linen. If you are righthanded start the wrap on your left side. Begin at the underbust on your ribcage and make sure the first wrap is nice and tight by pulling on the top edge of the linen. Wrap a second time around your ribcage. For the third wrap, bend at the waist and wrap the linen around your lower bust. Do not pull the linen too tight on the third wrap or you'll end up with 'wench boobs' instead of a curve. While still bending at the waist wrap a fourth time around your upper bust overlapping the previous wrap. Now stand up straight and begin to wrap the rest of the linen slowly and smoothly back down to your start edge. Tuck the end of the linen under to anchor it. You can also use a safety pin to make sure it stays secure.

A simple technique that, for me at least, is difficult to master. Until I can get the binding done in under two minutes I think I will forgo this option. I'm now going to attempt a strong quilted linen underbodice to provide the support needed for this gown.

November 24, 2008
Started the bodice in earnest. As before, I did a color sketch of the dress with some notes. The major problem with this bodice is the shoulder strap placement. Did you notice that these shoulder straps almost look oval and off-the-shoulder instead of straight and on the shoulder? This has perplexed me. My second problem was the gaping of the bodice at the armseye - how to get that curved look without using darts!

I draped the first bodice toile to incorporate this look. I used a kinda stretchy fabric to mimic the "give" in linen. I placed a curved back seam. The back curved seam was making the bodice gap and bulk at the armseye. There were also problems with the back trim placement. Hrmph!



I then cut out a second toile. I moved the shoulder straps in and off the shoulder a bit more. I had to add a bit of fabric to cover the resulting gap. Also turned the back curved seam into a side seam after studying some paintings.



The front shoulder strap is causing a wonky back trim placement. Onto the third toile!

I redesign the shoulder strap to come in about an inch. After placing the trim this extra inch in width caused the fabric to show in between the trim. Even though the strap is still cut in an oval shape it seems it's really straight. Keeping the oval off-the-shoulder shape of the strap, somehow, causes the bodice to curve beautifully around the bust. I didn't realize that until I pulled on the shoulder strap to pin it towards the back. Now my back trim placement looks so much better.

I don't like the oval look of the shoulder strap in the back. I will redesign the back of the strap to be the same as the front. I also realized that the oval look in the paintings is an illusion created by using wide trim. Next weekend I'll work on my fourth (and hopefully final) toile.



December 2, 2008
The shoulder strap was an issue again. After trying on the third toile the shoulder strap was all wonky and falling off my shoulder. I added some more fabric on the shoulder strap and cut out the fourth toile. Tried that on and it was much better - see the slight smile on my face? Now that the strap was not slipping off I still had to add some more fabric so it can curve around my shoulder. Cut out a fifth toile, added trim and tried it on - finally it fits!



The inner bodice is made from two layers of 7oz weight linen and an inner lining of light wool. Remember, I don't want to make a corded corset. Okay, don't want to make a full corded corset. I believe my choice for a wool inner lining is period because the Medici were well known in Florence as wool merchants. Eleonora's surviving gown is referenced in Moda Firenze as having a felted inner bodice. The author also believes that Bronzio's Portrait of a Lady is really Eleonora because of the Medici crest displayed in her jewelry. Take a look at that portrait and tell me there are not wrinkles on that florentine dress.

So were wrinkles painted out of most paintings? I guess we'll never know but damned if a wrinkle free bodice is just one of the most beautiful sights in the world. So off I went to Wallymart in a light rain/snowstorm to buy hemp cord. No, I'm not making a full corset (famous last words), just adding a little strength to the bodice since I believe the wool and linen alone can't do the job.

For security the wool was washed and then steam ironed to shrink it. I sewed it to the linen using a zigzag stitch on all sides except for the waistline. Then placed the other linen layer on top of that and pinned it in place. I drew 1" lines down the front of the bodice and at each line sewed a 1/8" wide channel which is enough for two lengths of cord.

The hemp cord is 1/16" wide and seems to have gone through some kind of treatment process. I considered raw hemp cord but I hope the treatment will eliminate any dreaded shrinkage. Oh, also purchased a loop turner. It works beautifully to pull the cord through the channels. Below is a video so you too may be convinced of its power. Last time I used floral wire and boy were my hands raw!



December 3, 2008
Panic set in. I lost focus when I pulled out my linen and saw it was really red-orange instead of orange. Luckily my fellow costumers set me straight. It also seems I can't remember what I read. Operafantomet clued me in on some issues with Bronzio's Portrait of a Lady.

December 11, 2008
It's just a jump to the left...
Corded the front and back of the bodice. Cut out my fashion fabric and sewed together in traditional fashion with right sides together. What a disaster! It didn't want to turn right side out properly because of the many layers of fabric and, of course, it shrunk about two inches all around. Don't know why because I added one inch seam allowance all around. Took the bodice apart again and placed my original pattern on it. Holy crow, the lines all moved!

My trace lines did not match up with the original pattern. Especially at the shoulder strap point. Me thinks the cording and adding of the wool made everything shift and stretch. Or maybe I had way too much wine. I decided not to panic. Did decide to sleep on it hoping the sewing dream fairies will show me the way.

The next morning I woke up with an epoophany. (Definition: e⋅pooph⋅a⋅ny: [i-poop-uh-nee] something that seems like a really good idea at the time. Most epoophanies are labeled as such upon afterthought.) Anywho, I retraced the original pattern on the bodice and cut it right on the pattern line with no seam allowance. Placed the fashion fabric under it. Carefully folded over the one inch seam allowance like a hem to make it lay flat, clipping curves as needed. Pinned it all in place and sewed it down using a fell stitch. I reinforced the two square edges of the neckline with extra thread as in Eleonora's underbodice. Then I placed the pattern over it to make sure. *sighrelief* So far, so good.



December 18, 2008
Sewed the back to the front at the shoulder point, which took me three tries btw. Folded over the back edges, pinned and sewed together. Looks good, even when placed on the dummy. I sewed temporary lacing strips to the edges and tried it on.

Now there's a problem. The top of the shoulder straps aren't sitting flush against the shoulder. They bow out just a little bit, kinda like a bad hemming job. I believe my method of folding and sewing the edges on the shoulder straps is causing that bowing. I still haven't figured out how to fix that problem.

The more pressing problem is the length of the bodice. Right now it sits flush at waistline. But on most of the portraits the bottom of the bodice seems to sit right below the ribcage. This means I have to cut away almost a third of the bodice to get this look. Needless to say it has been more than a week and I'm still afraid to pick up the scissors. One this is cut, there is no going back.



December 22, 2008
My costuming friends have assured me cutting the bodice just below the ribcage is a most 16c florentine virtue. They advised me to cut an inch at a time.

At least I mostly finished trimming the neckline this weekend. All I could do in between holiday parties. The front trim is turning out nice. The back looks all retarded. Think I'll fix it as in the new trim plan. Ooo, ordered the silk fabric for the sleeves and underskirt.



December 26, 2008
Thank goodness I listened to Jennifer when she said, "Word to the wise: If you are making an gown with guards at the neckline, plan out the embellishment details before you make your pattern and cut your fabric!" because the trim placement is making me crazy. I can't imagine where my nerves would be if I didn't listen to her. ::bowtoJennifer::

Even with the new trim placement the back of the gown still looks off to me. This morning I woke up and an image of a low cut back flashed in my mind. I looked through Jennifer's website and found the same image I posted here. See the woman at the far right? I need to cut the back opening a little lower and a little wider. I'll only get to that after I've finished the entire gown. I have a deadline and can't afford to be a perfectionist for now.

What I do need to do is remove the upper neckline trim. I used a fell stitch which causes the trim to pucker. I looked through my sewing books and learned the ladder stitch, which makes for a cleaner edge line. In the image below, the top black trim is sewn with a fell stitch, the second line of trim with a ladder stitch. Big difference.



December 30, 2008
My new iron and silk fabric won't be here until January 5th. I still have to line and pleat in the skirt, finish the trim and sew the eyelets on the gown alone. Then make the blue silk sleeves AND make a new camicia. Oh yeah, 12th night is January 10th. No pressure.

January 5, 2009
I didn't need to cut down the bodice back, I needed to redesign the sleeves for the hundredth time. I had to cut an inch off at an angle starting at zero at the front neckline. That alone made the back neckline square up nice and pretty-like.



The skirt was constructed of two rectangle pieces for the front and back and two gored pieces for the sides. The gore measured 6" at the top and were cut at a 30 degree angle. I pleated the skirt into box pleats after serging all the raw edges and seams. After box pleating I ended up with way too much fabric at the sides, so I eyeballed it and cut off quite a bit of fabric.

What I should have done is use a little math:
1. Measure front bodice width at the point where you'll attach the bodice. (20")
2. Multiply by three because each pleat is a 3:1 ratio. (20" x 3 = 60")
3. Add 1/2" seam allowance for each seam. (2 seams x 1/2" = 1"+60"=61") This is the width of your front panel.
4. Do the same measurement for your back panel. (10" x 3 = 30" + 1"= 31") This is the width of your back panel.

Decide whether you want side gores. The sides gores are added so you can slip the gown over your head. After lacing, the side gores can be neatly folded in towards the back with a hook and eye closure.

5. Add the difference between bust and bodice measurement. (36" - 30" = 6")
6. Divide by two. (6"/2"= 3")
7. Add 1/2" seam allowance for each seam. (2 seams x 1/2" = 1" + 3" =4")
This will be the top measurement for your side gores. Cut gores at a 30 degree angle. The length of each panel should be from the bodice attach point to the floor plus 3/4" inch for the top hem and 2" for the bottom.

If you want to lace your gown straight down the sides and/or leave an opening at the side, simply and add the Step 6 result to Step 3 & 4. This will give you some extra fabric for a wide seam down the sides. (61" + 3" = 64" front panel, 31" + 3" = 34" back panel)

There is a lot of information on how to make a bodice and but next to nothing on how to actually attach the skirt to a bodice. I emailed Sunny Buchler and thankfully she told me to simply butt-up the two pieces and whipstitch them into place.

What to my wondering eyes did appear after making and sewing up the box pleats (videos below) but a serged skirt top at the side opening. Ugh, that will not do. I decided to sew in a very small waistband - just enough to cover the serged edges. What I should have done (those words again) is fold over the raw/serged top down 1/2" before I started pleating - maybe even adding some light wool or felting as stabilizer in the fold. Well, we'll leave that idea for next time because I only have five days left!



January 8, 2009
It's panic time. After adding the waistband I tried whipstitching the skirt to all the bodice layers by lining them up right sides together and even at the top as I did before. The stitches were visible when I turned it out and looked terrible. I ripped those out and am handstitching the skirt to the bodice fashion fabric alone. The waistband now makes the end of the bodice a little bulky on the inside but it looks nice on the outside. I should've only sewn the waistband to the side gore openings.

Well, no time to argue with myself. I've got one day left. Friday is my day off so tomorrow I'm going to sew like the wind. I won't have time to make a new camicia but hopefully it will be enough time to finish the gown and sleeves.



January 12, 2009
I worked on the gown all day Friday. Still had the sleeves and hem to finish which I could finish on Saturday morning. There are still many details to finish but at least I could wear the gown.

I decided to head out to our local dive that evening because I was so stressed out. I was told by a friend that 12th Night was postponed until January 17th due to the weather. I didn't get the message because I only have internet access at work. Not funny. Not funny at all!

One more week to go. I'm covering the metal grommets (yeah, I know) with embroidery floss and a buttonhole stitch. The grommets ended up on the back diagonal trim which looks kinda bad. I don't know if I'll rip out the diagonal trim but for now I'm covering up the grommets in either orange or black floss. I tried on the gown and it seemed to make me look really fat and pregnant. I don't mind the pregnant part because it's period but the wool layer makes me look ten pounds overweight. The bodice pulled down from the original cut off point due to the weight of the skirts. I think I cut the bodice too wide because I didn't allow a little space in-between the side openings.

The sleeves are coming along fine. I made a new pattern based on my venetian gown sleeve pattern technique. It will be lined with dyed black china silk. I also made a simple linen poste.



January 13, 2009
I'm not done with the sleeves and I need to hem the gown but here she is front, side and back.



Things I would change:
1. Change the way I pleated and attached the skirt.
2. Add eyelets before placing any diagonal back trim.
3. Maybe eliminate the wool layer in the inner bodice.
4. Pin skirt to bodice to see if bodice pulls down because of the weight of skirts. This may change where I actually cut off the bodice.

January 19, 2009
After all that work, I didn't even go to 12th Night. Main reason being my husband decided to visit friends in the next state and take my car keys with him. No, we didn't have spares because he lost those and hasn't gotten to Home Depot to make copies. He finally got home around 3:00pm and by then most activities were over with, especially the Ball. I was livid by the time he got home.

Anywho, after wearing the gown for a couple of hours I found that my front shoulder hurt like heck. It is either because the shoulder strap lies in a weird way, the thick linen and hemp cord is pressing on my muscle or I just laced it way too tight. This is just a note so I can fix this problem next time around.

I don't like how my sleeves turned out so I'm making another set using Jennifer's florentine sleeve pattern. Also need to make a decent sheer partlet and a custom camicia out of 2.5oz linen. This gown will finally debut at the Bay Area Renaissance Faire the weekend of February 28, 2009, so I gotta get sewing!

Timeframe and To-Do List:
- New sleeves ala Festive Attyre
- Purchase sheer partlet fabric. Didn't like the chiffon.
- Custom Elizabethan smock.

Works Researched
Jennifer Thompson Florentine Gown Diary
Eyelet hole demonstration by Renaissance Tailor
A 1505 Raphael Gown by Anea
Period Patterns #41 by Mediaeval Miscellanea LC.
Beige/Gold Florentine by Cindy aka HappyStamper
Red Florentine by Sunny Buchler
1540s Florentine gown in the style of Eleanor of Toledo by Demode
Period Pleats by ElizabethanCostume.net
Christy Lee, A Florentine Gown in the Style of the 1510's
Florentine sleeve pattern by Festive Attyre


Elizabethan Smock Pattern Generator